The Double Ebb and Flow of Waves in a Basin
Why successive waves engulf a lagoon before the tide reverses
Leonardo argues why the flow and ebb are 'double' in a single enclosed basin (pelago): a wave entering the mouth runs strongly inward with impetus while the water at the mouth is already ebbing, so a fresh flow is reborn at the mouth before the first wave has spent itself. A small diagram at the head of the page shows a channel opening into the basin, marked with the points n, a, b, c and m and a further point drawn at the mouth. He concludes that once the basin is raised by many engulfed waves, its waters drive backward with force, and the ebb no longer takes in a third or fourth wave until the first water has been disgorged.
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Why the flow and ebb are double in one basin
The first inrushing wave runs strongly into the basin while the mouth is already making its ebb; before the engulfed wave feels that ebb, a new flow is reborn at the mouth. The engulfed wave slackens and stops just as the second wave's engulfment begins, and so many waves gather that the raised basin finally drives its waters back with impetus.
