Waves on a sloping shore; plan and a Piombino note
A wave running up the shore meets the returning one; with a small plan (b, a) and a note made at the sea of Piombino
The principal note explains how water (a b) running over the slope of the shore meets the next incoming wave; struck together the two waters leap upward, the weaker yielding to the stronger, before running back down the slope again. At the lower edge of the sheet a curling wave is drawn, keyed to the letters a, b, c of the note. The page also carries a small planimetric sketch labelled b and a among the ruled lines at the right, and, written upside down along the bottom, the memorandum that the study was 'made at the sea of Piombino.'
On this page
How opposing waves leap up where they meet
The water a b is a wave that has run over the slope of the shore. Returning back, it meets the oncoming wave, and where the two strike together they leap up; the weaker yields to the stronger, then runs down the slope once more.
Small plan labelled b and a
A small planimetric sketch is set among the ruled lines at the right of the page and marked with the letters b and a.
Note: made at the sea of Piombino
Written upside down along the lower edge, a memorandum records that the study was 'made at the sea of Piombino,' locating the observation on that coast.
