How a Sea Wave Breaks on a Sloping Shore
The crest outruns its base, collapses, and its foam runs back against the following wave
The transcribed note analyses the mechanics of a sea wave striking an oblique shore: after breaking, the crest travels farther than the base, loses its support, and collapses upon that base, while the foam is driven back against the base of the following wave. A long wavy line drawn in red and brown across the top of the sheet renders this wave profile. Faint geometrical triangle sketches also appear above and below the main text but are not transcribed in the bundle.
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The breaking of a wave on an oblique shore
The wave that strikes a sloping shore breaks upon it with force, then spends its impetus running along the beach. As it returns it strikes the base of the next wave and slows it; because the crest travels farther than the base, the crest loses its support and collapses, and its foam runs back against the following wave.
Drawn profile of the breaking wave
A single sinuous line drawn in red and brown ink sweeps across the top of the sheet, depicting the rising crest and the trough of the wave described in the note. The drawing is not accompanied by its own transcribed caption.