How Sea Waves Break: Incident and Reflected Motion
Waves rebounding at the shore leave the water's surface latticed (folio 126r)
Folio 126r studies the sea and the mechanics of its waves. Leonardo notes that the wave takes nothing from its shores but casts back what floats free, and that the surface retains the impression of its waves; breaking near shore arises from the meeting of a wave's incident motion with its reflected motion. Small diagrams lettered n, p, a, q, m, b, r, o, c and a, b, e, f, t, c show arched waves rebounding from a struck point so that the water surface remains 'graticulated' (latticed). The lattice is made of as many lines as there are rebounds, all the arcs taking their centre from the point of impact.
On this page
The sea, its shores and the memory of waves
The sea wave takes nothing from its shores; whatever is left free in the sea is thrown back to the shore, and the surface of the water keeps for a while the impression of its waves. A wave reaching the shore by incident motion already carries within it the impression of the reflected motion.
Incident and reflected waves make a lattice
If the wind a-b strikes at b with the arched wave n m o, the wave rebounds from b to c with the arched wave p q r, and the surface remains latticed. The latticing is made of as many lines as there are rebounds from the struck points: a-b strikes at b and rebounds at c, all arcs taking their centre from b, and the wave e-t striking at t rebounds and makes new arcs.
